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FEBRUARY |
By Alice Ross |
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Sausage-making
was not new in the American colonies, but followed a relatively unchanged
tradition that had begun in antiquity. Ancient records from all corners of
the world show how early this technique was applied. Paintings of early
Chinese kitchen scenes (500 B.C.) depicted them; surviving Greek and Roman
recipe manuscripts give us their spicing, general manufacture and use as
main dishes or in stuffing's,
Like those of other cultures, Middle-Eastern sausage flavorings reflected local cuisine and the ingredients common in their area. A thirteenth-century Andalusian and Maghribi manuscript recommended sugar, almonds, cloves, and pepper, sometimes prepared in "marrows" made from glands and giblets. The equipment was still basic: a recipe for Mirkas (Merguez Sausage) directed the cook to use "the instrument made for stuffing," and a "funnel" when making an "Extraordinary Sausage." Many early recipes also specified the use of stone mortars and pestles to reduce the meat mixtures to a desired fine and velvety texture. It was probably a relatively simple early form of sausage that made its way to Europe. The subsequent opening of the spice trade opened the door to evolving variations, each regional and cultural cuisine developing its own delicacies. Sausage was not commonly poor-man’s food—meat has always been dear—and expensive flavorings were used within one’s means as soon as they became available. English "puddings" included black or white puddings (a form of sausage made with blood), haggis, and any number of locally-named specialties. The mid-16th-century Flemish artist Pieter Breighel painted link sausages in profusion in his depiction of a wealthy kitchen, "Die Kuche Der Dicken." It is likely that people appreciated many of each others’ sausage forms—for example, German Bologna found its way into Robert May’s Accomplisht Cook (London, 1685 ed.). May, who had trained on the Continent, may have been early to explore what for him was a foreign dish. Somewhat later, Richard Bradley’s Country Lady’s Director (London: 1738) presented a recipe for "Sausages of Fish" that he had tasted in Brussels, and which he recommended for meatless Fast Days. Sausage was obviously too good to give up, and clearly adaptable. His sausage recipe from "Lady M," also carried the implication that hers was a high-status dish. In such dishes, characteristic variations sometimes took on the aspects of a culinary art form. Early
sausage making had not depended on complicated utensils. It was simply a
matter of mincing the meat and fat, mixing it well, adding salt and assorted
herbs and spices (to preserve as well as flavor), and packing it into a tall
ceramic pot. It needed careful pressing to eliminate
Links, on the other hand, had the advantage that they could be dried, perhaps in flavor-imparting smoke, and were less likely to spoil. In 1615 Gervaise Markham (The English Housewife, London) recommended that one use "farmes [forms, or casings] made as long as possible," that you "first blow them well to make the meat slip, and then fill them: which done, with threads divide them into several links as you please..." Robert May also instructed how "To make Links," advocating hogs guts, and commenting that when drying, they should be hung "till the salt shine through them." Early recipes continued to refer to stuffing funnels. This simple utensil eased the work. One pushed the casings onto the long funnel tip and allowed them to slip off, feeding gradually as the sausage mixture filled them. There was far less risk of tearing the casing this way, as one did not have to endanger it with the friction and pressure of moving, compacting meat. In this century some sausage makers also referred to a special hollow funnel-like implement called a "tin fill bowl" to "fill the guts." Traditionally, and in light of small-scale home production, it had been possible to make sausage at home without much specialized equipment. However, in the absence of geared or mechanical labor saving devices, the task of chopping sausage meat and fat and evenly mixing in the seasonings must have been arduous indeed. The simplest of tools sufficed. Markham directed the cook as follows: "...first with your knife cut the lean thereof into thin slices, and then shred small those slices, and then spread it over the bottom of a dish or wooden platter." This was to be topped with alternating layers of shredded meat and fat, and then "with your sharp knife scotch it through and through divers ways." When,
then, did the improvements in grinders and stuffers begin? According to one
bible of antique kitchenware's, Linda Campbell Franklin’s 300 Years of
Kitchen Collectibles, it wasn’t until the early nineteenth century
that wood, tin, and pewter cylinders with wooden plunger pushers became
common. This was the time of growing cities and the consequent wholesale
production of sausage for sale in local butcher shops. The Yankee ingenuity
of American industry was further inspired by growing consumerism in
expanding cities, and enhanced by waves of talented middle-class German
immigrants who brought with them great love and experience of sausage. New
inventions were With increased home production, one needed more help. It is no wonder that on the farm butchering was often a cooperative, extended family affair, much in the style of apple drying parties. Mrs. Lea’s sausage instructions advised that, "It is a good plan to have plenty of bread and pies baked, and a quantity of apples stewed, vegetables washed and ready to cook, so that every member of the family, that is able, may devote herself to the work of putting away the meat which is of so much importance for the coming year." The
earliest nineteenth-century geared grinders were made largely of wood. Bill
Holt, proprietor of the Curiosity Shop in Elkton, Virginia, has
By
the end of the century a number of manufacturers were producing cast-iron
look-alikes, much smaller in size but identical in concept. And
Just as grinders eased and increased production, so did stuffers. The difficulty in stuffing is that the cold meat mixture is fairly firm and requires some strength or mechanical advantage to work it into the casings. Nozzled tubes (wood, tin, or pewter) with wooden plungers were obvious improvements, but still demanded muscle. The great leap here came with the addition of levers, which made the stuffing considerably easier, and finally cast-iron tubs with efficient, tight-fitting geared plungers. It
was now far easier to grind and mix the meat mixtures and fat, and then to
stuff that prepared sausage meat into casings by use of effective cast-iron
stuffers. It seems like a lot of work today, but we
Today we buy our sausages in bulk or links that are very close to the historical forms. It is still possible to make one’s own and to satisfy one’s appetite for special blends of seasonings or one’s personal health standards. With modern food processors and mixer attachments, the work is easy; the product is glorious!
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air pockets and
covering with a layer of melted fat to keep out air. In addition, it was
often covered with a tied-on cloth, perhaps dipped in melted tallow, to
protect it from dust. Stored in a cool root cellar or well house, it lasted
for months, and was used as needed. This bulk sausage was much like what we
now buy in shaped frozen logs.
seen
many. He suggests that these hand-made box grinders were carried south
through the Shenendoah Valley by Pennsylvania German re-settlers. In these
marvelous contraptions a long wooden handle turned a central wooden
core-screw. Both the lining of the box and its core were carefully imbedded
with interfacing rows of sharp blades. As you turn the handle, the meat is
eased through the box, all the while being cut into increasingly small
pieces and finally dropped out at the far end. These grinders come apart
like Chinese puzzles for cleaning and sharpening. I have seen several
variants of this design—they have a remarkably similar but curiously
hand-made look.
may imagine the pleasure
and pride one had in such equipment when it was new. People must have
reveled in reduced labor and increased efficiency when performing what had
always been a demanding annual chore.